Showing posts with label Transformation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Transformation. Show all posts

Monday, November 28, 2011

The Monk who rode his Honda (Part Un)

Dearest Blog,                                                                                                                    

Its been a while since we saw each other and I am sure the silence in our communication has only made us grow more richer in our understanding of our self during this extended period.

Despite all this silence, you have filled a unique space within me and there hasn't been a day when I would think of how much you would like to hear a day's story that inspired me. So here I start again telling you more stories as we travel along. Glad you missed me.

Now, I must tell you a story however, a true story that is filled with determination, grit, inspiration and the quest to keep fighting hard despite difficult conditions. Yes, this true story takes place in the city of god - Mae Sot, Thailand where I rode a motorbike for 4 days and discovered what I now must share with you.

Yours Truly,
Me
05th October 2011

The Monk who rode his Honda
When I woke up on my Birthday morning, it seemed like a pretty normal day except this was the town of Mae Sot, Thailand where more than half the population were refugees from Burma numbering up to around 100000 or more. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mae_Sot.
I was invited by Mike - my local host who was introduced to me through a beautiful and unique soul - Whitney Haruf, (who also became a very good friend of mine instantly), to visit the Burmese Refugee Youth Art Studio where he taught art. I looked at my calendar (as it had become a habit of the urban dweller inside of me) and it was but of course empty. What was I thinking, I hardly knew two people in this entire town and had no agenda on my plate for the day, which begs the question - what was I doing here in the first place? Historically, the maximum number of troops from the Thai army was stationed in Mae Sot, the road from Mae Sot to Tak had more security checks than the airports of United States, a large percent of refugees who visited the Mae Sot clinic suffered from injuries that were directly due to land mines in the border areas between Thailand and Myanmar and yet Mae Sot had a friendship bridge that symbolized peace and goodwill between the two nations - a far cry from reality.
Burmese Refugees of Mae Sot
A few months earlier, back in Canada, I remember being at a meditation and yoga retreat where I was introduced to this amazing traveling saint - Chris Bradley who spoke at length about his experiences in Thailand and perhaps some of those incredible stories resonated with me and ultimately it led me to the epicenter of real Thailand. One way or another I was in for a truly shocking but life changing experience that was just waiting to unfold. "Happy Birthday Vik", said Mike with a very excited voice, "Just follow me and stick to the left side of the road, the cars here like to honk and annoy cyclists". So we rode out on our bicycles to the Art Studio that was land-marked by a yellow gas pump. It was a common sight to have these odd and colourful gas pumps in places that you would least expect - like outside a residential home for starters.
Artists at the studio in Mae Sot
Tiles made by Burmese refugees
The studio was remarkably colorful and sparks of creativity were flying all around the place. A woman was painting a coat of blue on ceramic tiles and she was introduced to be as a co-designer. All the ceramic art was to be a part of a project that involved building a guesthouse that was designed to provide sustainability for the current art studio. The uniqueness of this guesthouse lay in the concept of sustenance.  To make this more significant, all the artwork that was to be furnished within the guesthouse was designed and created by the staff and students of the art studio, most of them being refugees.
It was a project that everyone at the studio took pride in and put a lot of soul into. I observed silently as the initial timidity of the Burmese students quickly evaporated into a calm confidence that reminded me of Indian scooters who needed a manual kick start in case the auto ignition switch failed. Once the creative juices were on fire, the students started contributing towards ideas on creating a site map of the entire studio space and turning it into a garden artifact.

Mike and his students
Mike was a good teacher that inspired and encouraged his students to add their own ideas to the creative pool. Somehow that day, some of the students seemed a bit shy and intrigued by my presence there while it made the others want to impress their teacher even more. "They are a bit slow today, I am not sure why", said Mike with a bit of disappointment.  After exchanging a few ideas with Mike, I smiled and decided to let the teacher and his students do their usual bonding. Walking out into the garden, I really wanted to explore life at Mae Sot more. My experiences at Pai were creating serious withdrawal symptoms and I needed to hit the road again.  And so my search for a motorcycle began with the furious vigor of an inspired painter who's just had a vision of the perfect painting in his head.
The coolest restaurant in Mae Sot

After a few phone calls, a few misdirections and some frustration, I finally reached a Honda showroom where motorbikes were being rented out. It felt like drinking cold beer on a warm sunny day. Now I was ready to take on the world. I felt tempted to paint my face blue just like Sir William Wallace but then the thought of wearing a checkered skirt with no underwear on a motorcycle quickly dissipated this splurge of excitement. This was the best birthday gift I had ever given myself.
Mike and Whitney treating me
That night as Whitney and Mike treated me to a dinner in a posh, artsy (by Mae Sot standards) Burmese restaurant and even ordered a special Burmese cake to celebrate the occasion, I was celebrating in my own way, the discovery of the free spirit and the appreciation for what freedom meant in a rough but fully real little town of Mae Sot.

"Happy Birthday Vik", said Mike with a smile.

(To be Continued....)



Wednesday, September 21, 2011

High Tea (Pun Intended)

The Tea/Gas Station at Mae Salong
Doi Mae Salong is probably the only place in the world where they have a tea shop by the gas station. Seemed totally like my kind of town. 'Hey honey, we've run out of tea, let's go to the gas station and refuel!'


Wont Smile till you pay me..
Doi means mountain in Thai, however the language itself is quite amusing, the Thai use extremely colourful phrases to describe something really simple. For starters, "Going Overboard" is often expressed as "Kee Chang jap dak ga daan" which means "riding an Elephant to catch a Grasshopper", yeah makes visitors go "HUH?"
So the Songtheaw to Mae Salong from Tha-ton took us about 2 hours of driving through steep and winding roads and riding with the local Akha tribes who come by the dozen - If the question is how many people can you fit into a small mini van? The answer is 17. The Thais have mastered the science of compression technology when it comes to public transport.  An elderly Akha woman demanded 20 Baht for taking her picture, she did try hard to smile though - must give that to her.

Off to School
So the town itself is chinese               http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thai_Chinese  and has had generations of chinese settlers living here, it almost feels as if you are in Yunan or one of the chinese provinces. Education is extremely important to the Mae Salongers and so they end up sending their kids to two schools (for the price of one?), one is a Thai school where the entire curriculum is in Thai and from 4:30 to 7:00 p.m. they study Mandarin in a Chinese school. So their day starts quite early and you will see truckloads of kids being transported off to their schools.  Yin and Yang is totally at play here as you tread from the bustling local market which sells red hot chilli peppers ( I just wanted to say that) to a 700 mt climb up the mountains to a Chedi that provides some of the best views in this little town. 

Red Hot Chilli Peppers
The view from the top of the Chedi was simply stunning and helped me understand the grandeur while throwing a completely new perspective to the term "Climbing great heights". I wondered if this was a reflection on how tiny the world seemed from a great height and yet living in it seems big and overwhelming. It also helped me understand that work on the self also refers to the climb and the reward is well worth it.

View at the Chedi
It took me half an hour to get back to the town and there were lots of Akha people on the way who were quite friendly despite several warnings by fellow travellers. Some of the sights of the tea plantations made me thirsty and all activity in the town went dead by 9:00 p.m - Mountain life! The Party animals of Toronto would either hang themselves here or may just start another Boston Tea Party.

I decided to check out the Tea plantations the next day after a brief and disappointing visit to Market and finding chillies again instead of pineapple.  So here's the cool story behind the teas of Doi Mae Salong that makes you go high just by reading it...
http://www.doi-mae-salong.com/information/history

What was originally a land filled with opium has now been magically transformed into a tea plantation with every single trace of opium being removed and the chinese being given Thai nationality with the understanding that they would maintain the tea gardens and pass on to future generations. A find and replace act - how cool is that? Sounds like Terminator 2 doesn't it? Perhaps not...

The historic tea plantations of Mae Salong
"It can never be a 100% organic tea", said one of the experts in the region, "Soil factors, Seepage and other variables creep in. It also takes about 4 years to go from being an non organic plantation to an organic one", beamed a proud tea plantation owner who had completely managed to convert his crop away from the dark side. I spoke to 6 different Tea Plantations, tasted 25 cups of Oolong and Formosa and have now settled on the perfect cup with the perfect story and the perfect name for the Thai tea that would go into the Tea Garage portfolio. The challenge now would be to find a way to transport these to Canada and other places - hmm, this too shall unfold.

My Songtheaw back to Tha-Ton was at 11:00 am and I had a far ride ahead of me to Chiang Mai the city of 300 or more temples. Amidst all this excitement, I could hear a subtle knock on my soul and this time there wasn't anything zen about it. My thoughts were surprisingly calm and serene as I left one of the most beautiful tea hills in the world. It was as if deep down I knew my reason for coming here in the first place despite the stark question - " Do they even have tea in Thailand?"

No more tea for me today - 25 cups are good enough ( I think).